Aralsk

1 jUNE 2012

Aralsk, was once a thriving fishing port on the coast of the Aral Sea.

Have returned to Shymkent after spending two days out in the West of Kazakhstan visiting a town called Aralsk. This town was once a thriving fishing port on the coast of the Aral Sea. The sea used to stretch for 67,000 square kilometres, had a clear water, pristine beaches, plenty of fish and even passages ferries traveling from its north to south edges. In the 1950s the  USSR planners decided to increase cotton production in the fields along side the two rivers which feed this sea. The irrigation channels took far more water than considered for and had a detrimental impact on the amount of water flowing into the Aral Sea. Consequently the water levels fell dramatically. By 2000, the sea area was down to 30,000 square kilometres and less than a third of its original capacity. The 60,000 people who had originally relied on the fishing industry had reduced significantly and the whole ecology of the area had changed.

I travelled to this area with Kimmo, a finnish guy. I arrived in the town late at night and found a decaying old soviet hotel to stay in. The next day we hired a jeep to take us across the original sea bed towards an original fishing village called Zhalanash and then on to the existing Aral Sea coast.

The drive was incredible crossing dusty, salty desert where you could see the original coast line and banks of the sea, now standing out like valley sides.  Camels roamed across this dry and barren space.

When we got to the village, the only water remaining near by was a small lake where many horses and camels were drinking and trying to keep cool. Close by we saw the rusting remains of ferry boats, now home to camels sheltering from the sun.

We drove on to the Aral Sea another 10km further. I swam in it and enjoyed the refreshing   fresh water, possibly a sign that the saline composition is being reduced as irrigation changes are trying to address the situation. There was evidence of lots of bird life inhabiting the sea area. I saw swans and pelicans and lots of signs of fish.

Back in the town the museum had pictures of how the town used to look with a harbor and busy fishing industries. Now the harbor is dried up and a skeleton ship's hull remains. Four ships have been placed on pedisals next to the harbor wall in memory of by gone days and a domed building housing a swimming pool and small gym has been built where warehouses once stood.

I met a group of teenage girls from the local school who talked about their favorite music, fashions and actors with me. They spoke of their love for the town and how they enjoyed the Sumer months when school was closed.

Kimmo and I found a small bar to have tea. Men were drinking glasses of beer at breakfast time and the lady owner was throwing someone out at 1.00pm who had had one too many.

I really enjoyed visiting this place and having the chance to see the impact of this environmental situation on the people and the place. Hopefully in time, the water levels will increase in the sea and some form of living will return for the fishermen and their families.