Naryn

21 jUNE 2012

The journey from Karakol to Naryn via the southern side of the huge lake Issyk-Kol and the highway heading towards the Chinese border.

The trip involved a succession of mini bus and shared taxi trips. The last leg was in a taxi with five other passengers. It was decided that we would stop in one of the valleys to part take of some 'kumys'. The seven of us tripped over stepping stones to reach a shabby looking cabin where a family were selling this drink made of fermenting mare's milk. We entered the cabin and were invited to sit on the floor around a low table. We were served this drink which is supposed to be 2-3 percent  alcohol,  served in a bowl with fresh homemade bread, butter and a spicy vegetable dish made from something tasting like rhubarb. Slumped in the corner were two shepherds who had either drunk gallons of the stuff or had added copious amounts of vodka. The lady of the cabin showed us her chelek, the wooden bucket she uses to churn the milk and proudly showed off the gallons of kumys and blocks of butter she had prepared. I was encouraged to drink the whole bowl down for good health. It cures everything, I was told....