Benin City

2 APRIL 2023

Within the central roundabout of Benin City, stands the City Museum which houses an extraordinary exhibition tracing the history of this renowned city.

Though very little remains of the city of old, the museum presents its history with the addition of an array of bronze plaques and head busts. Some of these are replicas, some are those returned from the British Museum in London.

Though a small section of this exhibition, the role of the wives of the Obas, in contributing to the success of the kingdoms of old, is acknowledged.

The current Oba's palace is close by. I went to enquire about a visit and unfortunately was rudely pushed away by a security guard. 'We don't want people like you here' - I was told. A more friendly guard approached me and told me to return at 14:00 when their boss would return. I was told to wear appropriate clothing ie. coloured not black. I chose not to return and spent time on more pleasurable visits.

My visit to Igun Street, the UNESCO heritage brass casters street was very interesting. I met Uyi at one of the stalls and he spent time explaining the 'lost wax' processes in his yard at the back of the shop. In the yard they have a fire where the red sand casts are fired. Inside the cast will be a sculpture made of candle wax, which slowly disappears during the process leaving space for the liquid brass to be added. This is poured into the sand cast and fills the vacant spaces. The whole thing is then cooled in a hole in the ground. Once complete, the sculptor finishes the figure off with specific tools.

Uyi explained how he and his father are typical of the guilders of the area. They are exempt from paying taxes and expected to continue the craft. He sees his inherited trade as a gift which needs honouring and protecting. Even with a university degree, he knows that he must dedicate his life to this craft and continue to help brass sculpturing evolve by adding his own unique style to the designs.