Abeokuta

26 MARCH 2023

Abeokuta is a two hour taxi ride from Lagos. I did this journey in a shared car from Berger Motor Park, north of Ikeja to Kuta Motor Park in Abeokuta, for 2000N.

The journey out of Lagos was not as busy as I expected and the dual carriageway road was well tarmacked all the way. In Abeokuta, I used motorbike taxis to get around which was easy and quick.

Abeokuta is a fascinating town , backed by the Olumo Rock.

Through out the town you see architectural remnants of Afro-Brazilian heritage; mainly in the form of rundown mansions which are now adjacent to smaller homesteads. These buildings were built by the Afro-Brazilians, a community of people that was born in the 18th century and matured into the 19th ad 20th century. They are united by a mixture of racial, commercial, cultural and familial ties with a range of African, European and American ancestries; the original emerging through the shipment of enslaved West Africans to Brazilian plantations. Upon liberation, many of these people wanted to return to Africa. Others too old to leave Brazil or unwilling to leave their American families and investments, sent their Brazilian born children back to Africa to see long-lost families and for business and education. There were also those descendent from Brazilian traders who made Africa their home, sometimes marrying African wives, as well as their descendants and associates - free or unfree.

The present day, Abeokuta community is very diverse, represented by peoples of different faiths. There are numerous mosques and churches to reflect this. The Royal Palace of Abeokuta houses a museum dedicated to the heritage of the town and honours the Oba linage which is celebrated during an annual festival. The first Alake of Egbaland was Oba Okukenu who lead the community from 1854 - 1862. The current and fourth Oba is Adedotun Aremu Gbadebo Okekinu. He resides in the inner building on the compound and regular meets with the three senior Oba's from the surrounding areas; Oke-one of Uke one area, Gbagura of Ebagura and Olowu of Owu. This team lead the decision making processes of the Oba representation from each village within the area.

Opposite the palace is the centenary building, build in 1950 to celebrate 100 years of peace in the town. Today, its outside steps were the waiting area for people from the town awaiting the collection of cash pay-outs from the bank close by.

Walking through the neighbourhood around the old central mosque, gives an insight into the historical richness of this town and the present day struggles that its people have making a living.

I climbed up the Olumo Rock, which for centuries has been a spiritual focus point. The route went via some shrines, a sacred tree and the tribal hideouts of previous times. The climb via the steps and gap in the rocks leads to the top of the rock where there is a great view over the town. A couple were sitting reciting sections of the Koran. There is also a wooden cross and pulpit for Christian prayers. I celebrated a wonderful Sunday with a group visiting from Lagos and later some friends who'd come together from the town.

Walking back towards the Motor Park, I passed through Adire Market (Yoruba: tie and dye textile). There were only a few stalls open today, but this is a great centre of batik and indigo-dyed cloths made here in southwestern Nigeria by Yoruba women, using a variety of resist-dyeing traditional methods.