Windhoek

12 MAY 2023

Late last night, I was dropped off at the Chameleon Backpackers in Windhoek. I'd decided that if I was going to see anything of Namibia's renowned scenery and wildlife it would need to be with some kind of tour rather than my own attempts to travel on local transport.

Here the distances are huge, the towns and settlements spread out and the tourist attractions far from bus terminals. I assumed that a backpackers guest house might be able to help. I spent the day, looking into the wide range of options available through the Chameleon Travel Agent. A couple I met at breakfast, planted the seed which led to my decision to do a 12 day tour visiting the Etosha National Park. the Skeleton Coast and the southern area where the Fish River Canyon is located. It was a dream come true; an opportunity to see all the main sights, camp most nights, be transported around with all arrangements included and meet some interesting fellow travellers. And... the tour was leaving in the morning. Perfect.

The Guest House arranged a free town tour in the morning which was a wonderful way to get orientated and to gain some inside information about the history and life of Namibia.

Christuskirche

A surprising first stop on the tour and an unofficial symbol of the city. This is a 1907 German Lutheran church still providing services in German to the population of German heritage living in the city today. It's built from local red sandstone and designed by architect Gottlieb Redecker.

Independence Memorial Museum

Opened in 2014, and fronted with a statue of the first president of independent Namibia, Sam Nujoma, this museum is dedicated to the anticolonial and independence struggle. It was built with money gifted to the newly independent governance by North Korea in return for unknown amounts of titanium. The presidential palace and other government buildings were constructed at the same time.

Monument in honour of those that died in the genocide of the Herero and Namo people.

This monument reminds everyone of the genocide which took place in 1904 - 1908. Pitted against each other, the Herero and Namo people were involved in wars against each other and the German colonials in clashes sparked by a wish for land rights and power in the area.

Presidential Assembly Hall and Gardens

In front of this huge building are three bronze statues;

Captain Samuel Witbooi, (1906-1978) of the Nama tribe who was a teacher and chief. He asked for help from the Herero leaders as the tribe was tired of fighting and felt that they could do more together. He was interned on Robben Island for being a trouble maker and died in his 70s.

Hosea Kutako (1870-1970) of the Herero tribe took over as chief when the inherited position holder was taken into exile. He advocated for non violence and unity of the Namibian people against apartheid.

Reverend Theofelus Hamutumbangela (1917-1990) of the Oshwango tribe. Was deeply apposed to the injustices he witnessed eg. the men returning from working in Windhoek only to be robbed of their earnings by SA border police who were only then charged 25N if reported. He taught people how to read and write in English and smuggled a petition to international representatives within a bible. Was later poisoned whilst in police custody and held on Robben Island.