Skeleton Coast

17 MAY 2023

Palmweg campsite and lodge occupy a wonderful remote spot in the mountainous area of the Kunene Region. The lodge runs a sustainable water recycling plant and a solar panelled electricity supply.

The design features of the lodge were beautiful and fitted carefully into the terrain.

As we left the campsite, the elephant was sighted plotting slowly towards the campsite in the valley below. A farewell visit, we believed....

Dorsteek Pass

The road towards the skeleton coast is stunning and varied in terrain, colours and vegetation. We stopped at Dorsteek Pass to climb up to a vantage point and also to see the grave of a dog which was buried here by its owners. Seemingly it died on their way to visit the coast on a fishing trip. It's also customary to stop and have a shot of Bayley's at this point too. Legend tells us that once a guy was driving at the head of a convoy of friends in 4x4s heading for the coast. He tipped his vehicle on the way. When his friends had rescued him and the vehicle, and all were back on the road safely, he stopped them at Dorsteek Pass and served a round of drinks to thank them. The tradition continues.

Skeleton Coast National Park

The Skeleton Coast National Park stretches for 500kms along the Atlantic Coast and at the NW edge of the Namib desert. Along the coast, skeletons of ship wrecks and whales have been found. There are two climatic conditions affecting this section of the coast; the cold current from Benguela in Angola and the hot winds from the desert interior which together to form a thick fog.

Welwitschia plants

On a flat stretch of sand we find the welwitschia plants; these are pale green with long, pointed leaves lying flat on the ground. They seem completely desiccated and nearly dead however a closer look shows how these long living plants can survive 1000s of years. The leaves shred as the plant develops and the leaves suck up the morning dew. They have a fascinating reproduction process helped on its way by beetles.

Along the Skeleton Coast are remnants of thwarted attempts to build enterprise. We stopped at the remains of a oil rig, built by a German company in an attempt to take oil from the ground. The place had a desolate and dark atmosphere. Andrew captured this beautifully as he played a plaintive tune.

The Cape Cross Seal Reserve

The Cape Cross Seal Reserve was an incredible sight to behold. I have never seen so many seals in one place. Added to the volume of bodies was the assertive callings and odoriferous smells of piles of poo. A truly wild experience as we watched these adults and their young basking on the beach, suckling and frolicking in the waves.