Kunene Region

16 MAY 2023

We said farewell to the park this morning and headed back towards Outjo before heading west on the C40.

On the C40, heading from Otjikondo to Kamanjab, we stopped at the Onjowewe Village. Here we met members of the Himba tribe, closely related to the Hereros, who demonstrated some of their traditional ways of life. One woman showed us how she covers herself in a fragrant mixture of ochre, butter and bush herbs which dyes her skin burnt-orange to serve as a sun block and insect repellent. Along with the rest of the women, she had mixed this into her braided hair which gave the effect of dreadlocks. The women showed their traditional clothing and shared some of their traditional dance moves with us. There were no men around when we visited. They were out in the land beyond the village, herding goats and a few cows.

The guide, explained that in this village, the women have been encouraged to sent their children to the school. Nevertheless, they are reluctant to do so, as they see this as a place where their culture becomes destroyed. Seemingly they have agreed to send two of their children per family as a compromise.

I felt uncomfortable at this village. Though the women and children were pleasant and friendly, the whole experience seemed like a show for tourists, a tokenistic acting of parts leading as quickly as possible to an intense vying for selling their goods. We were asked to make sure we bought from each woman as they had laid their wears out on clothes around a circle. There seemed to be no arrangement for collating the takings into a collective pot to share out to all.

Comments made by John and Greg implied that these Himba people had come to work at this establishment and were being exploited both by the owner and for the sake of the tourist trade. It definitely felt that we were contributing to drawing them away from their traditional lifestyles and probably aiding their move towards a cash economy that undermines long-standing values and community cooperation.

We drove on to Grootberg Pass and the higher range around Mount Grootberg before dropping down to the valley where the oasis settlement of Palmweg lies. The animal disease control fence was evident as we drove along this route. Established to stop any diseases spreading from the northern area of Namibia further south. We spotted the palm trees before the lodge - an unusual sighting in this strange landscape.

Palmweg Campsite

The camp site was stunning. With views over the valley and fantastic facilities, we were a happy bunch. A welcoming visit from the sites elephant topped it all.