Vanadzor

I have found the most idyllic B&B, quite by chance in this northern town.

It's homely with a great peaceful garden and a brilliant tasty breakfast. Yesterday, I went with the owner Ashok on a drive through the Debed Canyon to visit churches and monastries hidden up in hillside settlements. We travelled through the cherry blossom covered valleys in a white Lada listening to old rock and roll numbers - a fantastic day. Without a doubt the two monasteries of Haghpat and Sanahin will stay in my memories of this part of Armenia. Both were nestled up in the hillsides surrounded by willows and cherry trees. The beautiful structures - arches, coned towers and old stone carvings were great to see.

Today, I have hiked up into the mountains behind the B&B, past deserted old Soviet holiday huts and picnic areas. Up against the snow line, the sun beats down and the ice is melting. It's stunning - there isn't a soul in sight and the mountain tops are clear.... lined in snow with the lower areas a wash with the colour of budding trees. A fanstastic place to be for a few days.