Perched on the edge of the Livingstonia escarpment is the Mushroom Farm, a permaculture ecolodge. I stayed here to experience the off-grid facilities, sweeping views and a guided hike to the Chombe Plateau.

I have travelled north along the west side of Lake Malawi, stopping in Cape Maclear, Mua, Senga Bay and Nkhata Bay. Each location has its own unique character, focussed around the fishing industry.

Today was another of those special days, spent out in nature in the company of a knowledgeable and determined young guide from the local community.

Famous for its emerald-green tea plantations and the spectacular massif, the Mulanje region was a wonderful place to visit in the quiet tourist season. The people in the area are experiencing the impact of last year’s earthquake and the rising cost of fertilizer and grains.

Blantye was hot and humid with intermittent rain. I stayed in the centre at the wonderful old colonial villa which is Henderson Street Guest House. From here I was able to walk into town to explore.