Ebolowa is a bustling town built on cocoa wealth. I was struck by how green it was and how a manmade lake forms the central focus of the town.

On a hill behind the museum is the Renumeration Monument - commemorating the agreement of a federal structure in June 1972 which saw the French and British Cameroons centralised as the United Republic of Cameroon.

After returning to Douala yesterday, I booked the train from there to Yaoundé. It meant an early start at 5:30 to get to the station for a 6:30 departure. Douala was in darkness but stirring. I was able to get a taxi easily from the road side by the hotel and arrived to a quiet and orderly station.

Boats were arriving into the harbour and being unloaded. Their catch was then laid out on the slabs in the market. It appeared that people then bartered for the amount they wanted and the totals were collated by one person sat close by. The array of fish was amazing; snapper, prawns, lobsters and various types of fish large and small.

We drive back to the city today, stopping at two sets of waterfalls on the way. The first set are smaller and used as a sacred offering place. Salt and oil were spilt around the floor of the soil on the ledge above the waterfall. These would be placed there as prayers were made.

Elisa took us on a wonderful walk through the fields towards the large rocks of the area, then on towards a waterfall before returning to her house to be shown her kitchen. This was a very special section of my trip. Elise is a wonderful person; generous, kind and informative. A treasured friend to Betina and a joyful soul.

Today we drove through the grassland area and through rich fertile lands heading north. Foumban is famous for its chieftains and the royal palace build by the 17th Sultan of the Bamoun dynasty.

We drove up to the area on a hillside above Dschang town. This was where the German governors resided in the 1900s and their buildings and recreational areas still remain. This area was taken over by the French and kept exclusively for white colonial use until today when the buildings were turned into a hotel.

Baham Bird House is Clement's dream project manifesting itself in the hills of his village. He bought the land and then brought in the architect and grounds designer couple Jule and Julie Courcelle Wokam to create the concept of a bird watchers hive filled with art and books. An art house in the countryside - sitting side by side with the small houses of the villagers.

I have taken the rare opportunity to join a German resident of the Cameroon, Betina, on her return to her village. She is going to a funeral and has invited me and two other German tourists, Freideman and Jutta to join her.

Today I spent more time discovering the wonders of Douala. It is good to be able to wander around this city without the worries of safety like I had in Nigeria. Cameroon is certainly more relaxed and less edgy.

I moved to the Foyer du Marin today; a mission establishment intent on providing seaman with a land based retreat of humanity when they dock in Douala port. It has a wonderful terrace and excellent restaurant.